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“Everything had to have more detail and texture, or it would have all blended together in a mush of grays,” Kimberley Spiteri tells Vogue. As the head hair designer on set for Netflix’s Mank, filmed by David Fincher in black and white 8K (maximum resolution), Spiteri meticulously transformed Amanda Seyfried and Lily Collins into 1930s-era historical opposites. Seyfried plays Marion Davies, the glamorous, platinum-haired Hollywood starlet linked to media billionaire William Randolph Hearst. Collins, on the other hand, channels her natural-born instincts as British stenographer Rita Alexander, “the prim and proper secretary” who helped screenwriter Herman J. Mankiewicz record the script for Citizen Kane. Describing the mood on set, the word “focused” comes to Spiteri’s mind. “You needed to be performing at the highest level.”

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At home in Los Angeles, Spiteri is prepping for another season of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, which earned her an Emmy nomination this year. Remembering Mank’s methodical research process, she references books like The Times We Had: Life with William Randolph Hearst and The Brothers Mank. “They all had actual photos, and gave great insight to these characters,” she says. To perfect the classic techniques, it was a team effort with the help of hairstylist Colleen LaBaff and custom wigmaker Rob Pickens. “Amanda Seyfried’s transformation could not have taken place without the beautiful wigs,” Spiteri says. “As beautiful as her natural blonde hair is, Marion Davies was platinum.” The team would wrap Seyfried’s extra-long waves as tightly as possible to prep for the hand-tied, bleached bob Pickens designed to hover above Marion’s extravagant costumes, whether a glittering lamé gown or maribou-trimmed circus uniform.

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In stark contrast to Emily in Paris, which she filmed in tandem, Collins’s look for her role as Rita was meant to be understated. “She’s not of the world of Hollywood,” says Spiteri. “Rita Alexander has been hired not only to transcribe the writings of Mank, she’s also there to keep him in line. So the first time we see her she’s very neat and tidy, a bit uptight—not a hair out of place.” She started the metamorphosis with Aquage Beyond Shine thermal styling spray to “protect her waist-long hair from any damage,” and notes that Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer is “worth the investment” for its ability to speed through steps with temperature-controlled care. Decades in the business have lent Spiteri a certain skill for respecting the integrity of clients’ natural hair. Plus, one of Fincher’s requests for Mank’s styles was “enough shine to see your reflection!” Collins’s chestnut-colored lengths were wrapped around Chi Lava Tapered Styling Wand, which Spiteri points out will “give you a tight enough curl when you don’t have time to wet set.” After cooling, coils were combed out and pushed into face-framing waves before Spiteri twisted and pinned the rest into a chignon, “a period-correct hairstyle appropriate for a working secretary.” As Rita begins to loosen up on the job, her relaxed attitude visually translates into “wispy bits” allowed to fall away from polished updos, lending her a softer edge.

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